Fall / Winter 2018
Since the brands inception, the Jonathan Cohen woman has evolved and developed – but her sensibility and perspective has remained the same over. “We’ve always said that our customer is modern in the sense that she’s complex because she’s more than one thing,” the designer says. “She’s a worker, a mother, she’s creative, artistic and complicated and she needs pieces that have meaning and that tell a story. Together, this speaks to where the luxury customer is today – well rounded, educated and when she’s spending money, she wants to make sure it’s on something she feels is unique and special”.
The Jonathan Cohen Fall/Winter 2018 eclectic yet bold collection came to life after watching Grey Gardens, the famed documentary about an old mother and her middle-aged daughter as they explore their bizarre existence and personal style throughout their decaying East Hampton mansion. “I was watching Grey Gardens and thinking about a girl going manic inside her home and started to consider what the modernized version would look like – set in New York City”, the designer states. “Big Edie and Little Edie were so isolated inside their home but their wild sense of imagination and the way they got dressed helped them through their troubles”.
This season, our story begins with the details, most notably, the flower motif. Using the pressed flower as a visual identity to help convey the collections message, the flower treatment makes its way throughout brand categories as both modernized embroidery, beading (a first for the season) and the creation of intricate, hand-drawn prints. Both singular (individual rose buds) and collage (Marigold, Azima Orchid, Safflower, Delilah, Chrysanthemum), the flower helps to further tell the narrative behind the collection’s inspiration. The flowers personify a one-of-a-kind sentiment with every petal embodying a unique structure and placement, giving the garment an even more personal touch.
Much like Big Edie and Little Edie’s approach to getting dressed, there’s a mix and match sensibility to the way they layer and style their outfits – moving a button from one garment and applying it to another; taking a piece of patchwork from a dress and applying it as a pocket to a t-shirt. Here, it’s all about mixing and matching and a sense of playful discovery, adding an element of personality into the details. Much like the knit range this season, which for the first time have all been done by hand, it aligns with the story of the brand and the theme of the season – a personal touch with a story to match, with certain pieces taking upwards of 85 hours to hand work.
When matched with a selection of strong tonal backgrounds, colors like Crimson Red, Ice Blue, Rose Brown and Pale Yellow help to bring the collection to life in a series of jacquards, embroideries, and prints. The silhouette for Fall/Winter18 continues to have a relaxed persona. From the Slash Skirt, a wardrobe essential reinterpreted this season out of 67 individual panels to the strapless evening gown with ruffle trim chiffon detailing, these pieces were created to feel as if you weren’t wearing them at all – a second skin that moves with ease, mobility, and most importantly – comfort.