Julie Gilhart is a fashion consultant and sustainability advocate, best known for her tenure as Fashion Director at Barneys New York, where she championed emerging designers. She is currently a consultant advising brands on innovation and responsible growth.
HOW DID YOU FIRST CONNECT WITH JONATHAN COHEN AND HIS WORK?
I saw Nicole Phelps from Vogue in a beautiful dress, and when I asked about it, she said it was Jonathan Cohen. I had to find out who this person was, so I went to his studio, where he and his business partner, Sarah Leff, walked me through the space. It was filled with scrap materials from past garments that were being repurposed into the most intricate woven skirt. Jonathan’s sense of color, along with the fact that they were producing well-designed clothes in a responsible, sustainable way, had me hooked from that moment.
WHAT INSPIRES YOU TO INCORPORATE JONATHAN COHEN’S DESIGNS INTO YOUR PERSONAL WARDROBE?
Jonathan’s designs carry a spirit that feels both artistic and wearable. His hand-painted prints give each piece a handcrafted feel, and when I wear them, I feel connected to the pieces. There’s the feel of intelligent, effortless design that’s easy to live in.
WHAT ABOUT YOUR LOOK FROM FW25’S SHOOT RESONATES WITH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE?
I always love a bomber jacket that's a piece you can wear with anything but this one was a thick silky satin with a flower print and it just felt so damn good, I didn't want to take it off.
THE FASHION INDUSTRY OFTEN PRESSURES DESIGNERS AND CONSUMERS TO CONFORM TO TRENDS AND FIXED AESTHETICS. HOW DO YOU MAINTAIN YOUR SENSE OF CURIOSITY AND OPENNESS DESPITE THESE INFLUENCES?
I’ve always looked at fashion as a space for discovery. Instead of chasing what’s “in,” I try to stay curious about what’s new, unexpected, or reflective of deeper values. For me, it’s less about trends and more about finding voices like Jonathan’s, who bring authenticity and meaning to the work.
LOOKING BACK AT YOUR TIME AT BARNEYS AND YOUR ROLE IN LAUNCHING THE LVMH PRIZE — PIVOTAL FOR NOW-ICONIC DESIGNERS LIKE VIRGIL ABLOH, KARL LAGERFELD, AND SIMON PORTE JACQUEMUS — IS THERE A COMMON THREAD AMONG THOSE WHO GO ON TO ACHIEVE LASTING SUCCESS?
The designers who endure all share a clarity of vision and a strong sense of self. They understand who they are and what they stand for, yet they’re also resilient and willing to adapt. More than just clothes, they create culture and build communities around their work.
BEYOND CRAFTSMANSHIP AND DESIGN, YOU’VE SPOKEN ABOUT PERSISTENCE, DRIVE, AND AN “AURA” THAT DISTINGUISHES EMERGING TALENT. DO YOU SEE SPECIFIC QUALITIES THAT REPEATEDLY APPEAR IN DESIGNERS WITH THIS AURA WHO ULTIMATELY BREAK THROUGH?
Yes, I feel there is a lot of fierce conviction and generosity. Designers with aura have a point of view that feels undeniable, but they also draw people into their world. There’s a magnetism that comes not just from their clothes, but from the way they connect with others.
AFTER 18 YEARS AT BARNEYS, YOU FOUNDED YOUR OWN CONSULTING COMPANY, GILHART & CO., WITH A MISSION TO CONNECT THE RIGHT BRANDS AND PEOPLE WHILE GUIDING SMALLER LABELS THROUGH THE INDUSTRY. HOW HAS THIS TRANSITION SHAPED YOUR OUTLOOK ON THE FUTURE OF FASHION?
It’s given me a broader view of the industry. At Barneys, I was focused on finding and nurturing great designers and meaningful product to an audience. As a consultant, I see how much the future depends on good crafted design, authenticity, collaboration & partnership, sustainability, innovation and most important community building. Working closely with smaller brands reinforces my belief that creativity and values are what will carry fashion forward.
YOU’VE PLAYED A PIVOTAL ROLE IN THE CAREERS OF DESIGNERS LIKE ALBER ELBAZ, JIL SANDER, AND RICK OWENS. HOW DOES IT FEEL TO WITNESS AND CONTRIBUTE TO THEIR JOURNEYS AT DIFFERENT STAGES OF THEIR CAREERS?
It’s one of the most rewarding parts of my work. Each journey is different, but the privilege is in offering support at the right time. Every situation is different whether that’s placing an early order, making an introduction, or simply believing in someone when they need it most. Watching talent evolve into legacy is extraordinary.
IN A CFDA ARTICLE, YOU SPOKE ABOUT THE PRESSURE DESIGNERS FACE TO KEEP PACE WITH THE INDUSTRY. IN A FAST-MOVING CITY LIKE NEW YORK, HOW CAN DESIGNERS — ESPECIALLY STUDENTS — FIND BALANCE?
It’s about setting boundaries and honoring your own process. New York moves fast, but you don’t have to. The best designers I know focus on building a language of their own instead of chasing every season’s new demands. Protecting your creativity and authentic self is just as important as producing.
SMALLER, INDEPENDENT BRANDS OFTEN FACE CHALLENGES IN VISIBILITY AND SCALABILITY. HOW CAN THEY CARVE OUT SPACE IN AN INDUSTRY DOMINATED BY LARGER PLAYERS?
By leaning into what makes them unique. Independent brands can offer authenticity, intimacy, and creativity in ways big companies often can’t. Jonathan is a perfect example: his hand-painted prints and narrative approach are things a mass brand could never replicate.